According to the Scots Magazine in a piece discussing tartan, ‘what began as a simple garment design with very little meaning at all, later became a symbol of rebellion and a battle uniform’, (and of course progressively, a Scottish clan and family’s identity ed.).
In this blog we will try to run briefly through the history of tartan and its association with clans, families and the wearing of kilts and some falsehoods associated with them.
Twa border Chiefs in their braw clan tartans: Rupert Irving of Bonshaw and Peter Carruthers of Holmains
The Kilt Evolution
One of the MYTHs involves the origins of tartan in Scotland, in that it was used by highland clans going back well into the mists of time. This is not overly true and especially when being linked to a particular clan. In fact, the woollen patterned fabric that we recognise as a tartan today only came into general use in and around the 1600’s.
In the same vein as the Scottish lowlander and borderer, until then tunics covering the whole body were worn by the Highland Gael. These were called a léine, and went over the head, much like long shirts. They were worn by both sexes, and by the 16th century, the amount and lavishness of the layers worn were used to reflect the wealth and status of the wearer.
A Léine (courtesy of ‘nationalclothing’)
Due to the oft incumbent weather in the highlands, over these day clothes was worn a type of shawl. This was used by both men and women to help keep them warm. In Scottish Gaelic, this article of clothing was called a plaid (meaning blanket). That is where the misconception comes from. As such the word plaid does not mean ‘tartan’, it simply means the wrap itself. However, the plaid is still in use today as the wrap around length of tartan worn over the shoulder by pipers or those in full highland dress, who chose to wear one.
Vice Commissioner Canada, Janet Carruthers Rossiter
Therefore the piece of weave/cloth itself is called a plaid, irrelevant of the tartan pattern and not the tartan itself.
It was however, this ‘plaid’, used as a wrap, that was to become the great or belted plaid or in Gaelic the feileadh-mór. This transition occurred from around the 17th century in Scotland where, although still using the léine underneath, the great wrap, a simple covering against the weather through an evolution of style, had become a primary component of highland dress. It was worn with a belt to lift it from the ground and make it easier to wear, where the rest could be thrown over the shoulder and if necessary, pinned. The belted wrap was to become the precursor to the modern-day kilt as we know it today becaming known as the Philibeg in Gaelic
The Jacobite Cause and the Proscription Act
Although historians advise us that tartan was in common use in the highlands before the Jacobite cause, the wearing of tartan further increased in popularity as a sign of Jacobite allegiance. It was however, not worn to differentiate one specific family over another at this time, but regional variants based on local dyes and the waevers chosen pattern, did exist.
After the failure of the ‘45 rebellion, the British Government made a general attempt to suppress Scottish culture and prevent future uprisings. As such the Act of Proscription was brought out by the Parliament of the day in 1746, it was later repealed in 1782.
The Act only included men and boys and did it not ban tartan outright but simply restricted its use. The suppression of highland dress did however mean that in many cases the link between Highlander and tartan was broken by the time the Act was repealed. According to Scottish History;
‘The Dress Act made it illegal for men and boys to wear the highland dress, including the philibeg, north of the Highland line, which ran from Perth in the east to Dumbarton in the west. Women were exempt from the ban on wearing highland clothing as too were men who enlisted with a highland regiment in the British Army‘.
- ‘And be it further enacted by the Authority aforesaid, That from and after the First Day of August, One thousand seven hundred and forty seven, no Man or Boy, within that part of Great Britain called Scotland, other than such as shall be employed as Officers and Soldiers in His Majesty’s Forces, shall, on any Pretence whatsoever, wear or put on the Clothes commonly called Highland Clothes (that is to say) the Plaid, Philebeg, or little Kilt, Trowse, Shoulder Belts, or any Part whatsoever of what peculiarly belongs to the Highland Garb; and that no Tartan, or party-coloured Plaid or Stuff shall be used for Great Coats, or for Upper Coats‘.
Highlanders were therefore prevented from wearing their now traditional dress to include the philibeg or little wrap and were forced back into the dress worn by Lowlanders and Borderers. Only Government soldiers were explicitly excluded from the ban and wore the attire and tartan of their regiment.
Folks who breached the Act were put in prison for up to six months. Any further breach would see the perpetrator transported to the colonies for anywhere up to seven years.
Therefore, the MYTH is that the Proscription Act banned tartan altogether, this is in-fact incorrect. The Act itself was repealed in 1782, but by then the ‘Highland dress’ and its link to the people, had diminished greatly.
Did our ancestors proudly wear the tartan of their name in battle?
Carruthers Commissioner Craig and his wife Lizzie (Australia)
Another MYTH perpetrated by some with the cry, ‘this is the proud tartan of our ancestors’, well possibly so, but only going back a couple of hundred years to the early 1800’s. As such it is only since the 19th century that different tartan patterns have been associated with specific Scottish clans.
- NB All tartan has its own ‘DNA’ as it were in its colours, threadcount and its sett. (The sett is the tartan pattern itself. It is this ‘DNA’ that is on the register of the Scottish Tartan Register, and if assigned to a particular clan/family, belongs to and is copyrighted to them i.e. Bruce is Bruce, McLean is Mclean, Carruthers is Carruthers etc, and although one can wear any tartan they so wish, they cannot claim ownership of it, nor are they given away because ‘they aren’t used’!)
Regarding our own family, the silly claims about the Bruce tartan being the tartan of our Carruthers ancestors and used by the ancient Celtic tribes we originate from, carries as much truth as Caratacus, the Celtic warlord at the time of the Romans in southern England, being the Carruthers first chief, again another grossly inaccurate MYTH.
While regional tartans did, as previously stated, exist at the time of the Act, tartans specific to individual clans were not ‘invented’ until the early 19th century. This was simply a commercial enterprise stimulated by George IV’s Grand Ball in Edinburgh in 1822. This event, stimulated by Sir Walter Scott, was where tartan associated/linked with named clans and families literally began. The Monarch invited all the clan and family Chiefs to the ball, (Carruthers chiefly line had been dormant since 1809), and requested they wore their clan/family tartan, of course none existed, and panic ensued. The cry was taken up by lowland weavers such as Wilsons of Bannockburn, who wished to capitalise on the growing interest of all things Scottish, to include the highland wear and especially with an assigned tartan to a name.
Carruthers in Africa, Ian Carruthers (Commissioner for Africa) and family
As such, tartans have only been linked with and registered against clan and family names since the early 1800’s. As other clans/ families wished their own individual identity, the registrations have continued. Initially with such databases which formerly recorded tartans i.e. the Scottish Tartans Society (STS), the Scottish Tartans Authority (STA) and/or the Scottish Tartans World Register (STWR). However, in 2009 the Scottish Government launched the Scottish Register of Tartans, being administered by the National Records of Scotland, in Edinburgh. Advice and input is received from the Court of the Lord Lyon in any new or upgraded Clan/Family tartan listing. The Register amalgamated the databases of the STA, STWR and STS on its formation. As such, if a clan/family tartan wishes to be officially recognised, its registration on the database is a of necessity a requirement.
Mark Evan Dunning Carruthers, our tartan in the US.
Moving on through the decades, amongst others, more Scottish clans and families wishing to have their own visual identity had their tartans registered. However, only a recognised Chief or Commander, with input from the Lyon Court can have a ‘clan/family’ tartan catagory registered. In fact it was only in preparation for the confirmation of our own Chief in 2019, that our tartan was commissioned and registered with the Scottish Register of Tartans. This took place in Edinburgh on 25 January 2017. It is now listed as the official Carruthers clan/family tartan with the reference number STR11700.
There is no doubt that tartan and the wearing of the same has become synonymous with Scottish clans and families. Based on the success of the inaugural Edinburgh Tartan Parade, where 1600 people in celebration of tartan marched, to include our own Convenor Michael Carruthers and his family. The Carruthers contingent receiving much acclaim for the efforts having wore their Carruthers tartan with great aplomb. They were a focal point for photographs by many spectators.
The parade itself was a great success and reflects the pride in the symbiotic relationship between Scotland, its people and tartan and can it only get bigger year on year.
Carruthers Tartan
Our Convenor: Individual parts of Scottish traditional dress (if a waistcoat is worn a belt normally isn’t)
The Carruthers tartan, woven by the House of Edgar in Perth, Scotland and available to kiltmakers worldwide, is worn by our family in most major parts of the world to include Africa, America, Australia, Canada the UK and Europe, by all those who wish to truly celebrate and honour our Scottish heritage, culture and history.
At the Chief’s Inauguration outside the clan tent: 2nd right, Cecélia Mitchel Carruthers (European Commissioner) and left, Laurie Carruthers Canon (Canadian Regional Secretary,Senior Clan Genelogist), far left Lady MacGregor.
Carruthers tartan is woven by the House of Edgar in Perth, Scotland, from 100% Scottish wool. To our knowledge they are the only weavers of our tartan. The colour palette used by our weavers, which can change from weaver to weaver, ensures that the tartan you wear remains authentic. Carruthers has no ancient, weathered or hunting tartans to date. For recommended kilt makers pleae see our tartan page, for other items we recommend Scotlandshop.
So, did Carruthers, as Scottish Borderers or Reivers, proudly wearing the tartan of our ancestors, go screaming into battle as some seem to claim?
Well a resounding NO, and for the following reasons!!
- Neither tartan nor in fact any form of kilt were worn in the borders and definitely not by Reivers. This is whether it be Carruthers, Armstrong, Graham, Scott or even Bruce (the latter being classed as a Lowland Family), it was never worn.
- Unless, members of a Scottish regiment, Carruthers never ever wore kilts nor tartan into any battle.
- NO border family in fact, any Scottish clan or family, had a tartan registered/assigned/linked against their names until the early 1800’s.
- Carruthers itself never had a designated clan/family tartan, until 2017.
- The official Carruthers tartan is registered with Scottish Register of Tartans (STR11700), a Scottish Government Agency set up for that purpose as the clan/family tartan, it was adopted by the Chief as such, in 2019.
- It is woven by the House of Edgar in Perth, Scotland, one of the oldest family run weavers still in existance, it is not woven anywhere else that we are aware of.
- The Carruthers tartan is however, available to the trade world-wide from the House of Edgar directly to your kiltmaker.
- Bruce is not a Carruthers tartan, it is registered to Bruce and if a tartan carries the name Bruce in any part of its name i.e. hunting, weathered, ancient or modern, it remains a Bruce tartan and not Carruthers.
- Clan and Family tartans are not given away to another name because they aren’t being used or in fact for any other reason….ever!!!
See the examples listed below and the dates of their recognised family designation.
Not all that we read on the internet is fact, as such all we can do is try and educate others based on our evidence and solid research.
Promptus et Fidelis
