According to the Guardian Newspaper published on the 22nd of January 2024, the oldest known tartan piece , which was found in a peat bog is to be brought back to life by the weavers of the Carruthers tartan, the House of Edgar, Perth, Scotland. But what is the background to this fascinating story?
During forestry work carried out in the Highlands in 1980, the what is now called the ‘Glen Affric’ tartan was found in Glan Farrics about 19 miles west of Loch Ness.
Historians analysed dyes in the 16th-century Glen Affric tartan, found in a peat bog, to recreate the true colours.
The oldest known piece of true tartan ever found, which was discovered in a peat bog, has been recreated by experts.
Uncovered about 40 years ago in a bog in Glen Affric in the Highlands, the tartan underwent rigorous testing last year to confirm it was the oldest surviving true piece of the traditional patterned cloth.
The Glen Affric tartan dates from 1500 to 1600, the Scottish Tartans Authority confirmed. It went on to be exhibited at the V&A Dundee.
It has now been recreated for people to wear by a manufacturer and distributor of tartan fabrics, the House of Edgar, under the guidance of a tartan historian.
The tartan features the colours that dye analysis of the original material had confirmed – this included the use of green, yellow and red, which would have come from woad or indigo to create the green, along with other natural dyes.
Emma Wilkinson, the designer for House of Edgar who worked on the project, commented: “I create new tartans every day but this project is truly special – a once in a lifetime opportunity to recreate a piece of history.
“Tartan is such an iconic piece of Scotland’s identity and it has been a true pleasure to see this fabric come back to life to be enjoyed for generations to come.”
The historian who guided the manufacturer in recreating the product, Peter E MacDonald, who is head of research and collections at the Scottish Tartans Authority, said: “It was a privilege to examine the Glen Affric specimen, which represents an extraordinary survivor of our textile history.
“The dye analysis, carbon-14 dating and a detailed study of the piece, together with a collaboration with House of Edgar, has brought back to life a tartan that allows us to reach back in time and touch history.
“It is quite special to see the tartan remade as it could have been 500 years ago.”
James Wylie, assistant curator at the V&A Dundee, said: “The Glen Affric tartan took the world by storm when it was revealed prior to the opening of V&A Dundee’s Tartan exhibition and continued to be a major draw for many visitors over the past nine months.
“I am excited its legacy can now live on through the studious efforts of the Scottish Tartans Authority and House of Edgar in reinterpreting its design, for the enjoyment and interest of all who cherish tartan’s historic allure.”
According to the V&A in Dundee further clarified that the Scottish Tartans Authority commissioned Dye Analysis and Radiocarbon testing on the woollen textile to prove its age.
The first investigation was dye analysis carried out by analytical scientists from National Museums Scotland. Using high resolution digital microscopy, four colours were visually identified for dye analysis: green and brown and possibly red and yellow.
The dye analysis confirmed the use of indigo/woad in the green but was inconclusive for the other colours, probably due to the dyestuff degradation state. However, there were no artificial or semi-synthetic dyestuffs involved in the making of the tartan, which pointed to a date of pre-1750s.
Further clarification on the age of the tartan involved radiocarbon testing at the SUERC Radiocarbon Laboratory in East Kilbride. The process involved washing out all the peat staining, which would have otherwise contaminated the carbon content of the textile.
The Radiocarbon testing results identified a broad date range between 1500 and 1655 AD, with the period between 1500 and 1600 AD the most probable. This makes it the oldest-known piece of true tartan found in Scotland – the Falkirk ‘tartan’, dating from the early third century AD, is actually a simpler check pattern woven using undyed yarns.
Peter MacDonald, Head of Research and Collections at The Scottish Tartans Authority, said: “The testing process has taken nearly six months but the effort was well worth it and we are thrilled with the results!
“In Scotland, surviving examples of old textiles are rare as the soil is not conducive to their survival. As the piece was buried in peat, meaning it had no exposure to air and was therefore preserved.
“The tartan has several colours with multiple stripes of different sizes, and so it corresponds to what people would think of as a true tartan.
“Although we can theorise about the Glen Affric tartan, it’s important that we don’t construct history around it. Although Clan Chisholm controlled that area, we cannot attribute the tartan to them as we don’t know who owned it.
“The potential presence of red, a colour that Gaels considered a status symbol, is interesting because of the more rustic nature of the cloth. This piece is not something you would associate with a king or someone of high status; it is more likely to be an outdoor working garment.
John McLeish, Chair of The Scottish Tartans Authority, said:
“The Glen Affric tartan is clearly a piece of national and historical significance. It is likely to date to the reign of James V, Mary Queen of Scots, or James VI/I. “There is no other known surviving piece of tartan from this period of this age. It’s a remarkable discovery and deserves national attention and preservation. “It also deserves to be seen and we’re delighted that it is to be included in the Tartan exhibition at V&A Dundee.”
James Wylie, curator at V&A Dundee, said:
“”We knew The Scottish Tartans Authority had a tremendous archive of material and we initially approached them to ask if they knew of any examples of ‘proto-tartans’ that could be loaned to the exhibition.
“I’m delighted the exhibition has encouraged further exploration into this plaid portion and very thankful for The Scottish Tartans Authority’s backing and support in uncovering such a historic find.
“To be able to exhibit the Glen Affric tartan is immensely important in understanding the textile traditions from which modern tartan derives, and I’m sure visitors will appreciate seeing this on public display for the very first time.“
The House of Edgar
Weaving the finest tartan since 1783. The House of Edgar is the world leader in the Highland and Celtic Wear markets offering an excellent value for money service. To provide the speedy delivery for which we are renowned, we stock over 1000 Clan, District and Irish County tartans in a variety of weights and compositions, together with a range of supporting products. These include a wide selection of highland dress items such as jackets, ties and scarves.
They are proud that their entire manufacturing process is based in Scotland. The design stage takes place at their headquarters in Perth, with an expert team of designers. Following this, their fabrics are skilfully in Keith, in a traditional textile mill in the Scottish Highlands. Lastly their fabric is finished in Galashiels, in the Scottish Borders. A true Scottish production of the finest quality.
The House of Edgar has been weaving and supplying the official Carruthers tartan since its registration 2017.
Peter E MacDonald
Peter is Scotland’s foremost tartan historians, he is, as has been previously stated, head of research and collections at the Scottish Tartans Authority, as well as an advisor to the Lord Lyon. He specialises in all aspects of Tartan, with a particular interest in Jacobite era patterns and techniques through to the early commercial production of tartan by the famous weaving firm Wilsons of Bannockburn.
With an emphasis on historically accurate research, his site is your starting place to discover Scotland’s unique textile heritage: from the traditional to unusual and rare tartans faithfully researched and recreated, to film and book consultancy or new tartans designed with traditional techniques to meet individual customer needs.
Peter played a role in having the Carruthers tartan registered by our Chief as a clan/family tartan in his role as an advisor to the Lord Lyon.
